Here are some of the questions previous customers have asked with Chris’ answer. If you have a specific question about your roofing job and don’t see the answer here, please send us an email.
I’ve never been a fan of the foam closures. They may be needed if you have very low slopes or a location with high winds but in general, I never use them. One of the biggest issues I’ve had with them is that most of the foam closures I’ve used are of a very low quality. In a few years, they shrink, dry rot and start falling out. If you’re using proper technique and design as I’ve described in the videos, you won’t need them. I’ve completed thousands of roofing projects and never use them.
This is a great idea. You can pre drill a big stack of panels all at once. This will make it easier to drill the screws and also keeps them in straight line. Just use a small drill bit (⅛”) to ensure the screws bite into the panels some. Also, think this through before you start drilling to ensure your holes will line up with your wood purlins. Areas with valleys, hips, ridges and other obstructions like dormers are going to interrupt your pattern of spacing on the purlins.
As a rule, I’ve never done this but it’s not a bad idea. Especially areas with low slope (below 4/12), this is a good idea. Always do your sealing underneath or between the panels or trim to keep the sealant out of the weather and the harmful effects of UV rays.
This is a good point as it can be confusing when you first see a valley bent like this. The W-valley pans we use have an outer hem (¾”-1”) that are really bent on a 45, not vertical. If you have a steep valley, you probably don’t need it. Yes, this hem will hold the panels up a bit but that is generally not noticeable. This lip can provide essential backup protection from water that rolls up the sides off the valley by directing that water back down into the valley and not allowing it to roll over the edge of the valley. While it can leave a little crease in the overlapping panel, I’d leave it like that. Better to have a little crease than have the roof leak!
Don’t do it. Space them 2’ O.C. max. That spacing ensures that you have enough screws to hold down the panels from both wind uplift and also help constrain the expansion and contraction of the panels which can lead to fastener back out down the road.
You can install all of the panels with the same ¼” step in each one. Then when you’re finished you can snap a straight line along the eave and cut off all of the panels on that line so they are straight.
I’d recommend overlapping at least 6 inches and on a 4/12 I think laying a heavy bead of sealant down first is a good idea. If you live in an area prone to snow and ice dams, I might overlap 12 inches. Just make sure there are no fasteners going through the overlap area or the holes in the bottom piece might leak in the event of an ice dam. Also, remember, don’t screw through the valley flashing when installing the panels – all screws holding down the panels must go on the outside of valley flashing.