Roofing FAQ

Here are some of the questions previous customers have asked with Chris’ answer. If you have a specific question about your roofing job and don’t see the answer here, please send us an email.

I did not see any use of closure strips on the top or bottom of the panels, at the valley or underneath ridge panels. Are these needed in a residential application?

I’ve never been a fan of the foam closures. They may be needed if you have very low slopes or a location with high winds but in general, I never use them.  One of the biggest issues I’ve had with them is that most of the foam closures I’ve used are of a very low quality. In a few years, they shrink, dry rot and start falling out.  If you’re using proper technique and design as I’ve described in the videos, you won’t need them. I’ve completed thousands of roofing projects and never use them.

Pre-drilling roof panels….your thoughts?

This is a great idea. You can pre drill a big stack of panels all at once. This will make it easier to drill the screws and also keeps them in straight line.  Just use a small drill bit (⅛”) to ensure the screws bite into the panels some. Also, think this through before you start drilling to ensure your holes will line up with your wood purlins. Areas with valleys, hips, ridges and other obstructions like dormers are going to interrupt your pattern of spacing on the purlins.

Do the laps of gable trim, rake trim, valleys need to be sealed

As a rule, I’ve never done this but it’s not a bad idea.  Especially areas with low slope (below 4/12), this is a good idea.  Always do your sealing underneath or between the panels or trim to keep the sealant out of the weather and the harmful effects of UV rays.

With using the type of valley flashing shown in the video, do the edges of the valley tin that have the vertical factory bend, hold the roof panel off the roof? Should that be bent down towards the valley to maintain the “pan” but allow the panel to set onto the roof properly?

This is a good point as it can be confusing when you first see a valley bent like this. The W-valley pans we use have an outer hem (¾”-1”) that are really bent on a 45, not vertical. If you have a steep valley, you probably don’t need it. Yes, this hem will hold the panels up a bit but that is generally not noticeable. This lip can provide essential backup protection from water that rolls up the sides off the valley by directing that water back down into the valley and not allowing it to roll over the edge of the valley. While it can leave a little crease in the overlapping panel, I’d leave it like that.  Better to have a little crease than have the roof leak!

I have seen many steel roofs with no venting for septic or vents. Can I assume these were cut off below the steel, and are vented out the top of the roof through the vent at the top? I really like that look much better than the pipes sticking out of the roof, and I feel the possibility of a leak goes way down. What’s your thoughts? Please help.
I have seen people do this and in some respects it’s a good idea. Any penetration whether it be a pipe or a chimney is a likely source of leaks in the future. However, I’m no plumber and it’s important to understand that those vents exist for a reason. Additionally, the vents are code in many areas and removing them or placing them below the roof probably violates the building code. I’d say, cut these off at your own peril.
You are placing your 1×4 boards 2 ft apart. What are your thoughts on spacing them out to 3 ot 4 ft ?

Don’t do it. Space them 2’ O.C. max.  That spacing ensures that you have enough screws to hold down the panels from both wind uplift and also help constrain the expansion and contraction of the panels which can lead to fastener back out down the road.

My supplier offers valley flashings in 10 ft. sections. How much overlap is recommended and is caulking needed. My roof has a 4 in 12 slope.

I’d recommend overlapping at least 6 inches and on a 4/12 I think laying a heavy bead of sealant down first is a good idea. If you live in an area prone to snow and ice dams, I might overlap 12 inches. Just make sure there are no fasteners going through the overlap area or the holes in the bottom piece might leak in the event of an ice dam.  Also, remember, don’t screw through the valley flashing when installing the panels – all screws holding down the panels must go on the outside of valley flashing.

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